Pharmacy cosmetics: looking for an evaluation criterion
I.K.ZHUKOVA, PhD, dermatocosmetologist of the clinic "Surgery of Beauty"
Today, there are a huge number of various cosmetics on the market – not only familiar creams, lotions and tonics, but also new types of cosmetic products – serums, masks, foams and many others. Cosmetics are sold in stores, beauty salons and pharmacies. What is the difference between pharmacy cosmetics and mass-market products? What exactly is necessary for you and what will really benefit and, if necessary, help in solving some problems?
A few years ago, a new term appeared – "cosmeceutics", i.e. a combination of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. Cosmeceuticals began to be called cosmetics that can not only care for – cleanse, soften, protect the skin, but also partially "treat", help take care of the skin with any problems - acne, peeling, pigmentation, etc. In fact, cosmetics cannot treat, and has no right, because the methods of production, testing and control of cosmetics and medicines are completely different.
Each cosmetic and pharmacological company, entering the market, determines its niche, the main marketing and advertising directions. As a rule, cosmetic companies that decide to sell their brands through a pharmacy chain position them as cosmeceuticals, but this is not always true. Given the greater confidence of customers in pharmacies than in cosmetic stores, now a huge number of a wide variety of cosmetics are sold in pharmacies. Not all of them, to be honest, can claim the title of "pharmacy", as, for example, the brands of foreign manufacturers Vichy, Lierac or La Roche-Posay. However, recently, domestic developments of cosmetic lines, justified in pharmacy positioning, have been increasingly appearing.
About expediency and specific problemsThe most appropriate sale through the pharmacy network of cosmetic brands specifically designed for skin care with various problems.
A common skin disease, especially in adolescence and adolescence, are vulgar (or ordinary) acne - acne. To care for such skin, to prevent exacerbations of diseases, there are special cosmetic preparations containing antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, drying agents. The Clearasil brand is most widely represented in Russia, which has cleansing foams, lotions, antibacterial creams, napkins, shower gels, etc. in its range of products
Cosmeceutical preparations for the care of skin prone to acne formation are presented in the domestic pharmacy chain by Ducray. Its products have a disinfecting, drying effect and improve the relief of the skin.
Almost every cosmetic line has products that are designed for "problematic" oily skin with a tendency to acne. But brands such as Vichy (pharmacy cosmetics), Clinique (shop line) and many others should be considered exclusively cosmetic products and do not pin hopes on the therapeutic effect. Being high-quality and very effective cosmetics, these products cannot replace external medicines. The same is the case with skin problems associated with allergic reactions, excessive dryness and atopy. Atopy (atopic dermatitis, childhood eczema, neurodermatitis) is a hereditary pathology of the skin, manifested by dryness, itching, peeling and related to allergic skin diseases. As a rule, young children get sick more often, and gradually the disease regresses, but the listed features of atopic skin remain for many years. Therefore, for such a skin, it is not enough to use only moisturizing or nourishing agents, it needs the most effective care and protection. A special line for hypersensitive and atopic skin is A-Derma cosmetics, its range includes cleansing agents, moisturizing and nourishing lotions and gels. Dermatological care products are tested in dermatological clinics for effectiveness and tolerability on hypersensitive skin.
The Santeri laboratory offers an approach to daily care taking into account the disruption of the skin ecosystem due to environmental pollution. This is especially true for women living in large cities, regularly exposed to stress, using tap water with harmful impurities. Using a biologically active protective complex, these cosmetics increase the ability of the skin to resist the harmful effects of the environment.
It is very popular to use various thermal waters (Avene, Vichy) in cosmetics, which have a soothing, irritating effect.
Cosmetics of the RoC brand is one of the leaders in the field of creating anti-aging products using retinol derivatives and the ability to perform micropilling procedures at home, which not only allows the skin to look much younger, but also really affects the processes of cell renewal of the surface layers of the skin.
The Phytosolba laboratory develops the concept of hair care with the help of herbal components that meet each specific hair problem: stimulation of the scalp, prevention of hair loss and improvement of their structure.
Widespread diseases of the scalp skin are seborrhea and psoriasis, and special shampoos, such as Freederm, are available for hair care for such people. Such shampoos are a category exclusively of pharmacy cosmetics.
It is gratifying that cosmetic companies (Lierac, Vichy) produce not only cosmetics for skin care, but also decorative cosmetics intended for problem skin – makeup bases, foundation creams, auto–bronzants and many others, which, in addition to their basic properties, also have a cosmeceutical effect - lifting, anti-inflammatory, anti-comedogenic, etc.
Cosmeceuticals from pharmaceutical manufacturersSpecial attention should be paid to really therapeutic cosmetics presented by pharmaceutical companies.
Pharmacy German cosmetics Shoynear, designed to care for dry and sensitive skin, contains high concentrations of collagen, tropical plant oils in the composition of liposomes and other active ingredients – plant extracts and vitamins.
Vitorgan Laboratory is a world leader among manufacturers of medical and cosmetic products based on the cellular contents (from stem cells to mature cells) of animal organs and tissues. Strict compliance with international requirements for the material used, the uniqueness of cosmetic formulations allows these cosmetic preparations to really solve the problems of anti-aging.
Sunscreens: it's better this way…In addition, an important section of pharmacy cosmetics are products with sunscreen properties or UV filters.
The digital indicator of a sunscreen means how many times the time of onset of erythema (sunburn) is longer when using this remedy compared to its absence. Sunscreens are shown to all residents of the middle lane during their stay on the beach, trips to hot countries, mountain resorts. Despite the fashionable chocolate tan, in excessive doses, the sun has a very negative effect on the skin and the entire human body, causing photo-aging, pigmentation disorders, increasing the risk of cancer.
In the middle lane, the optimal protective "strength" is 10-15 units. Being in the southern latitudes, a cream with 20 protection can be applied to the body, and 40-60 units can be applied to the nose, upper feet and shoulders. It is better to buy high–quality and reliable brands of French medical cosmetics - La Roche Posay, Aven, Bioderma. The cream of maximum protection must be applied to the moles. People with a lot of nevi are forbidden to sunbathe. During a beach holiday, try to update the protective layer of the cream every 4-5 hours. Now there are decorative cosmetics with a UV filter - for example, powder with protective filters 10-15 and even 40. The French Bioderma cream is produced with a maximum protection of 100. It is recommended for people with fair skin and freckles who are not able to sunbathe at all, and at the slightest sun they develop photodermatitis. Sunscreen cosmetics today have such a strong chemical composition that it is difficult to wash it off. This is, on the one hand, a big plus when relaxing at sea – it is possible to update the protective layer less often, on the other hand, it introduces some discomfort and a feeling of a sticky body. The La Roche Posay brand is known for high-quality sunscreen preparations that not only effectively protect from the sun, but also do not form an unpleasant "film", they are easily felt on the skin. These products are recommended both for use in the southern sun and the sea, and for use in the middle zone – for example, after peels for patients with impaired pigmentation.
To save and restore the hair in the sun and in the sea, you can not do without therapeutic cosmetics. The French medicinal series Phytosolba – hair care with the help of plants – will help lovers of southern tanning. This oil is based on olive wax, protective spray and jelly, moisturizing hair mask after taking sun treatments. A special line of "Phytoplage" with protective components from UV rays will restore the structure of the hair, restore shine and healthy appearance.
P.S.In conclusion, a brief overview of the expediency of using pharmacy brands of cosmetics, we emphasize once again that cosmetics, even if they are sold in a pharmacy, do not have a therapeutic effect.
They are designed to care for healthy skin, unlike external medicines. Properly selected, i.e. taking into account the skin type, season, climatic zone, working conditions and purpose (for cleansing, nourishing the skin or protecting it), they can become a reliable measure for the prevention of both premature aging and the development of serious skin diseases. The selection of cosmetics is more rational to carry out, based on the data of an individual study of the functional state of the skin by a specialist cosmetologist or dermatologist. However, pharmacy cosmetics help people suffering from skin diseases to cope with the exacerbation of the process in the final stage of complex therapy and are necessary as care during remissions. This, strictly speaking, is perhaps the main purpose of such brands.
Source: Russian Pharmacies Magazine No. 6-2007.
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30.04.2008